The Benefits Of Microneedling

microneedling pen

The beauty industry is lucrative and benefits from making a lot of lofty “anti-aging” claims. I always like to be cautious with what I offer because I am so grateful for the trust my patients and community have in me. I check in with myself often about maintaining safety above all. One of the things I do to ensure this, is that I never offer a new treatment until I have tried it myself, tried it ON myself and researched it a sufficient amount. Microneedling is something I have been learning about for the better part of the last 6 years and am pretty excited to have started offering it in my clinic. I also would like to give people some pertinent information and context for this new modality. I also think the aging process is a natural part of living. Aging is beautiful in itself because it means we have LIVED. Skin rejuvenation is about brightening the complexion and boosting confidence so that we can show up as our most glowy, shiny selves.

Microneedling pen

The skin is the largest organ of the body. In Chinese Medicine, it is associated with the Lung and Large Intestine. There is often a correlation between digestion, immunity and skin in both Eastern and Western Medicine. These are also organs that help us get rid of toxins through sweating, excretion, coughing, sneezing. As we age, our fluid metabolism can slow down and we might notice dryness in our skin, throat, bowels. Noticing subtle changes helps us to understand the presence of an imbalance in our system. If lifestyle habits are not adjusted in accordance, we can notice these subtle changes become more present. What shows up in the skin and complexion can be indicators of overall health.

Microneedling encourages an immune response that is also an increase in blood circulation to the face (skin or area that is being treated) that will help to flush out any fluid build up and create healthier blood flow resulting in clearer brighter skin.

What is Microneedling?

Micro-needling is a technique in which tiny needles are used to create controlled micro-injuries on the skin that triggers the body’s response to repair itself, by an increase of collagen production. This will make your skin will look naturally refreshed and rejuvenated. The growth of new skin cells naturally takes 28-42 days in the average adult. Microneedling can speed up this regrowth. Another benefit of microneedling is that it increases serum absorption by 3000%! This means with microneedling we can take better advantage of all those expensive serums we buy!

Plum blossom needle used for hair loss

When there is an injury that causes scarring to appear, collagen does not form properly and will cause the skin to be thicker and not as flexible. Microneedling can help to breakdown scar tissue so that the once injured skin can regenerate as it should again. As we age, the body’s ability to regenerate and repair skin naturally diminishes.

In Chinese Medicine, there is an instrument called the plum blossom needle. This is a tool that is often used to treat the skin, hair loss and other conditions. A microneedling pen is a mechanical version of the plum blossom needle.

More Microneedling FAQ’s

What can microneedling help with? Acne scars, fine lines and wrinkles, scars, hyperpigmentation (dark spots), stretch marks, hair loss and overall brightening of your already beautiful face.

How does Microneedling compare to laser ablasion? Laser ablasion has a similar mechanism of action and goal of microneedling, but it is more invasive, less comfortable, requires longer recovery and is not always appropriate on darker skin tones. Microneedling on the other hand, can be used on all skin types, including sensitive skin and darker skin tones. It is not as invasive as laser treatments and the recovery time for microneedling is 24 hrs or less.

How does Microneedling compare to Facial Acupuncture? Microneedling excels at treating dark spots, fine lines, wrinkles and improving complexion while facial acupuncture excels at lifting sagging skin and relaxing tight muscles in the face. Facial acupuncture tends to be more relaxing for some and can be done as often as 3 times a week. Microneedling should be done 6-8 weeks apart. The two treatment styles work well to compliment each other as it is recommended to have facial acupuncture or nanoneedling between microneedling sessions.

Before and after a series of microneedling

How long does it take to see results? The length of time it takes for micro-needling to have an effect on your skin can vary —while some people experience noticeable changes after their first treatment, others may need multiple treatments before they see the results they want. Though some positive results can be observed within a week of the first treatment, collagen continues to rebuild for approximately 3-6 months afterwards. Therefore the skin continues to improve with time and continued visits. (2016 Singh and Yadav). I usually suggest between 4-6 visits 4-8 weeks apart for optimal results. Microneedling on the scalp can be done with more frequency, every 2-6 weeks is suggested.

Can microneedling be done on the body? Microneedling isn’t just for your face! It can also be used on the neck and hands to help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It can also be used on the body where there are unwanted scars and on the scalp to encourage hair regrowth.

Safety and Precautions

Though microneedling can be a great skincare treatment for some, it might not be appropriate for everyone. Eastern Medicine teaches us to look at individuals state of health and tendencies as unique. Those who have autoimmune conditions, bleeding disorders, are on blood thinners, anemia, herpes, are pregnant, have a tendency to form keloids, those on chemo or radiation therapy, eczema or psoriasis or have broken skin/rash should avoid microneedling. (2016 Singh and Yadav). Areas that have been treated with botox, implants, recent surgery or other fillers should be avoided for a period of time. After botox, microneedling is okay after 4 weeks. For other fillers and implants please check with the provider who administered the treatment before seeking microneedling.

Microneedling should not be done on areas of broken skin, acne, rash or skin irritations, recent cancer or chemotherapy treatments. Those on acutane cannot have microneedling done until 6 months after stopping the medication.

Microneedling is not appropriate during pregnancy. Though other types of providers might have a different opinion on this, as a Chinese Medical provider it is important to look at the body as a whole. During pregnancy, it is important to allow your blood circulation to focus on the baby and uterus. Microneedling draws a lot of circulation and activity up to the face and away from the uterus.

Because microneedling increases your skin’s ability to absorb by 3000%, you also want to begin considering the ingredients in your skincare products. It is always better to use products that are more natural and avoid fragrances and other toxins in your serums and moisturizers during your microneedling process. When you receive microneedling with me you will receive as part of your treatment, custom-made hyaluronic acid serums that do not contain preservatives, fragrances or toxins.

Recovery, Aftercare and Typical Course of Treatment

Microneedling sessions at Emily Grace Acupuncture include LED facial treatment, facial gua sha and body acupuncture. These additional modalities help to increase the effects of microneedling while also making the process more comfortable. After the procedure, you can be red and swollen for a day or two. Most recover within 6-24 hours. Immediately following your treatment, you should avoid putting any products on the face, exercise and sun exposure all together and only wash your face with cold water for 24 hours. You will be given a custom serum to use during your recovery. After 24 hours you can resume your regular skincare routine but be sure to use sunscreen. Skin can take up to three sessions to see results but some notice a more radiant glow days or weeks following the first visit. You should avoid direct sun exposure for the next 7 days.

Microneedling can be done every 4-8 weeks. This allows the skin to take its time to heal between sessions. In between sessions it is recommended to have facial acupuncture for those are interested in addressing sagging skin, and nanoneedling for those who want to work on complexion, fine lines and under eye bags. Expect to have a course of treatment of 4-6 microneedling sessions. More treatments may be needed depending on your desired results.

Nanoneedling pen head

Nanoneedling uses the same device as microneedling but does not penetrate the skin, but instead uses silicone tips. It increases serum absorption by 97% and is more gentle for those who have thinner skin or are just generally more sensitive and do not feel comfortable with microneedling. Nanoneedling is safe for those who might have contraindications for microneedling (autoimmune, anemia, high blood pressure). Nanoneedling can be administered as frequently as three times a week.

As with any treatment, results vary from patient to patient based on age, lifestyle and skin conditions before the treatment is performed.

What Does Research Say?

A 2016 study determined that microneedling is suitable for darker skin tones while other invasive skin treatments could cause post treatment hyperpigmentation as an inflammatory response. (2016 Singh and Yadav)

A 2018 study was completed on the safety and efficacy of microneedling for the purpose of submitting approval for a specific device. This study concluded that four microneedling treatments showed significant improvements in skin texture, lines, wrinkles and skin laxity. It was also noted that the side effects and recovery after microneedling were more easily managed than those of similar but more invasive treatments like laser ablation and radiofrequency.

A 2021 literature review on microneedling for hair loss determined that microneedling alone increased hair growth more than the use of topical monoxidil and the combination of microneedling and monoxidil yielded even better results.

Image by Josh Nerenberg

*This post is for educational purposes and is not medical advice.

Microneedling first time visit is $380, follow up $350.

Read more about Natural Options For Hair Loss and Your Guide To Facial Services

Written by Dr. Emily Siy, DACM, L.Ac. on May 11, 2022

Sources:

Ablon, G. (2018) Safety and Effectiveness of an Automated Microneedling Device in Improving the Signs of Aging Skin J Clin Asthet Dermatol Aug; 11 29-34

Gupta, A.K., Quinlan, E.M., Venkataraman, M., Bamimore, M.A. (2021) Microneedling for Hair Loss J Cosmet Dermatol 21:108-117

Nerenberg, Josh Acumicro Microneedling Workshop notes

Singh, A., Yadav, S. (2016) Microneedling: Advances and widening horizons Indian Dermatol Online J Jul-Aug; 7 (4): 244-254

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